Blog

Our intended flight to Prague would have gotten us in around 1PM. We figured we would have that day to explore the Mala Strana (or Old Town). Then, we could spend the next day at the Prague Castle. However, the universe had other plans, as we learned when they canceled our flight while we were waiting in line to check our bags. That left us with just enough time for dinner on our first night in Prague and a full day of exploration on our second. It wasn’t enough to see all of Prague’s glory, but that’s okay. There really wasn’t a better place for things to work out exactly as they did.

Jamil and I got married in Prague in 2010, and we’ve had the chance to wander the city’s nooks and crannies, both on our own and with a guide. Prague is a fabulous, historic city with a complicated history, really too complicated for Josephine to understand at eight years old. Prague is somewhere we’d have to revisit under any circumstances to give her a fair shake at grasping the city’s significance. And the little time we had there successfully whetted her appetite; she loved it and can’t wait to return.

Here’s what we did in the short time we had:

1.      First, a walk through the Old Town.

 Luckily, the Christmas Market was still in full effect. It was so lively and fun, and we couldn’t help but stop for an early-morning cup of hot chocolate that boldly proclaimed itself, “The Best Hot Chocolate in the World.” That was too tempting. We had to find out if it was true. And it was!

We also walked over to the famous Orloj, the medieval astronomical clock that is attached to Prague’s Old Town Hall. The clock is mesmerizing. The clock was created in 1410. It shows the rotation of the zodiac, reflecting the Sun’s location and the Moon’s, as well as tells the time. And it has these magnificent figures that move around the clock every hour, representing Greed, Vanity, Death, and Lust. Furthermore, the Twelve Apostles appear on the hour. So people tend to stand and wait for the hour to strike, so they can watch the Orloj do its thing.

The clock has particular significance to us because my parents were sitting in the square, having a glass of wine and admiring the clock’s design, when they struck up a conversation with the Portuguese gentleman at the next table. They talked and talked, and eventually exchanged contact information. He turned out to be the Minister of Energy for Portugal, and would you believe that we wound up connecting with his family in Portugal not once, but twice? We would call them again if we went to Lisbon, and I hope they’d call us if their paths led them to Houston.

2.      Shopping at the Moser store in the Old Town.

This year, I couldn’t think of anything I wanted for Christmas. What I really wanted was to go to Europe and shop for beautiful things. One thing I’d been pondering was purchasing new crystal glassware. Jamil and I adore having friends over for drinks and dinner; it only makes sense that we should invest in some pretty pieces to serve our guests.

Moser Crystal is spectacular. The company has been producing intricately engraved glassware for almost 200 years. It has supplied crystal to the monarchs of Austria-Hungary, Persia, England, the Vatican, and so many others. And when you visit the Moser store in Prague, you can feel how special the pieces are.

The Moser store is set in an old palatial home that has original, highly detailed wood paneling and wonderfully tall ceilings. The pieces are on display behind glass, for the most part, lest a clumsy customer shatter a work of art.

Jamil and I found a pattern we loved, and we purchased several glasses to send back to the United States. We intend to buy more over time and eventually complete the collection. I will look at them forever and think of this precious time together with our amazing daughter.

When my mother died, I learned that you can only hold onto so much. Maybe these glasses will be among the heirlooms Josephine chooses to add to her own collection when we’re gone.

3.      Walk across Charles Bridge to Prague Castle

The Charles Bridge dates to 1357. It’s lined with 30 baroque statues, and while conservationists argue that renovations of Charles Bridge have been shoddy throughout history, ignorance is bliss. It looks great to me!

It was snowing as we made our way across the bridge, a phenomenon that made a beautiful landmark even more breathtaking. As Josephine pointed out, the snow created a sort of reverse shadow, covering all of the crevices with white. It was so special.

If you go, don’t forget to rub the dog on the St. John of Nepomuk statue. It will bring you good luck! And you should have no trouble finding the exact spot to rub: unlike the majority of the bronze on the bridge, which has darkened from oxidation and pollution, the lucky spots are bright, shiny gold because so many people rub them every day.

4.      Prague Castle

Prague Castle is the largest surviving medieval castle. Construction started in the 800s! It housed monarchs of Bohemia and the Holy Roman Empire; it served as the seat of the Czech Republic. And for centuries, people have been coming to the Castle to worship at its awe-inspiring basilicas.

The Basilica of St. Vitus dates to 1344. It was a medieval pilgrimage site because it held (and still holds) the remains of St. Wenceslaus, and it’s one of the few churches in the region that came through WWII intact. There are countless elements of the church that make it worth a visit, but I particularly like the wooden relief carving of Prague from 1630 and the Mosaic of the Last Judgment on the exterior wall of the basilica.

We also visited the Basilica of St. George, which is the oldest building in Prague Castle. Honestly, I know the basilica is important, but it’s worth only a brief look. It’s very simple, which is unsurprising, given its age. The coolest thing about the church is that it holds the remains of some saints, most notably Ludmila of Bohemia, the grandmother of Wenceslaus. She was strangled to death for her commitment to Christianity, so she had a one-way ticket to martyrdom and canonization. She’s considered a patron saint of the region.

The Lobkowicz Palace, the most fabulous, intimate museum ever, is also in Prague Castle, but we opted not to tour the exhibits this time. The last time I was there, I spent upwards of 2 hours, listening to the audio guide and studying each exhibit. I didn’t think Josephine was really ready for that, so we didn’t do it. However, you should know that the Lobkowicz family is really in charge of the Palace. They run the entire operation, and everything is top-notch. We met the family when we were there in 2010, and then by some weird coincidence, one of our clients happened to be closely related to them! They’re committed to the legacy of the Lobkowicz name, so you won’t be disappointed by any of their ventures. 

5. The Mozart Interactive Museum

This was a nice museum. It’s huge, set over four floors, and the creators put a lot of effort into making the space fun and educational. For example, they laid out in order from smallest to largest a violin, a viola, a cello, and the like. As you opened the instruments, they began to play their portions of the melody.  When you closed the boxes, they stopped playing. You could play any combination of them, and it was very cool. We all liked learning how the various stringed instruments contribute to the sound of a piece. They also had a virtual reality conducting experience and a room where you could spin various cylinders that repressed instruments to make the sounds of those instruments come alive. And throughout the exhibits, they offered insights into Mozart’s life and genius. It was a good way to pass some time and encourage musical interest, if a little cheesy here and there. 

6. The Museum of Alchemists and the Ghost Museum

This was not a museum I longed to see. But the ticket was included with another ticket, and we were like, hmmm, why not? Turns out, there are many reasons why not, but it was still better than the Ghost Museum, described below. 

The Alchemist Museum is filled with all kinds of garbage, but it does take you up an interesting staircase that the guides say is hundreds of years old. I believed them until I went to the Ghost Museum, which was such a piece of grunge that it made me doubt anything they had to say. We climbed into the attic of a building that was five centuries old and viewed ridiculous installations meant to teach us what alchemists were really into — attempting to grow humans in soil, for example. There were strange taxidermies and bizarre mannequins. Honestly, I’m glad we went because it was THAT weird. 

The same cannot be said of the Ghost Museum, which Josephine insisted on touring. Man, Prague has a weak-sauce history of hauntings, or at least they’re presented wretchedly in this ghost museum. 

---

I’m not much of a breakfast eater, but if there’s one place that can convince me to forgo my intermittent fasting for a day, it’s Spain. 

Traditionally, the Spaniards don’t do bacon and eggs or French toast or yogurt with granola (although you can find pretty much anything you want in most cities these days). Instead, breakfast in Spain is a small affair, either a simple pastry or a small loaf of toasted bread, served with freshly grated tomato, olive oil, and salt.

You can get it at basically any bar in the city. Yes, I said bar. All the tapas bars open in the morning for coffee and barritas de pan con tomate. Alternatively, you can run into any one of the many bakeries situated all over every town. You’ll get the same fare, albeit with a greater array of pastries to choose from.

We typically go to the same bakery every morning in Madrid. It’s called Granier, and it’s located on Calle Hermosilla. I can’t say it’s the world’s greatest bakery. It doesn’t have to be. All we need is a decent croissant for Josephine, good café doble (double espresso), and fresh bread and tomato. It’s wholly satisfying, costs perhaps $10 total for all three of us, and takes approximately 15 minutes.

Now, onto lunch!

Referred to as comida, lunch is the main meal in Spain. I’m not usually the biggest lunch person, but in Spain, we walk a ton, and I’m very hungry by 2:30, a solid lunchtime over there.

On this past trip, I have to say that our lunches were pretty weak. The first day we had in Madrid, Jamil flew to London and back in an attempt to retrieve our bags. Josephine and I had our small breakfast at Granier, thinking Jamil would be back in time for a late lunch, since his plane landed at 2:00. Sadly, when we met him at the airport, we spent another 2+ hours there, trying to locate our bags. So, no lunch for us. Two other days, we had similar issues, wasting hours at the airport, trying to collect our bags. However, there were four noteworthy lunches that I’ll share.

1.      El Paraguas – El Paraguas is one of several great restaurants owned by Grupo Paraguas, a popular restaurant holding in Madrid. If you go to the restaurant’s website and scroll to the bottom, you’ll find a listing of the other establishments in Madrid. We’ve tried most of them, and they’re always reliable choices that are super popular with Madrileños.

This year, we ate at El Paraguas for New Year’s Day, a day when I knew the people of Madrid would be having elaborate family comidas. I desperately wanted to avoid the predicament of not having a reservation at an awesome place and having to settle for a lousy substitute. Although we’d never had comida at El Paraguas before, I know the place well enough to feel certain it would be ideal for a leisurely New Year’s Day lunch.

I was totally right. The place was packed. In fact, it was so packed that the only reservation we could get was at 1:00PM, a little early by Madrid standards. However, as it turned out, all the tables in the restaurant were full, and we were the only tourists in the joint. Everyone was there to take their time, drink wine or beer, and indulge in January 1 laziness. We indulged similarly, with me sipping Albariño and Jamil enjoying a caña, as we splurged on a larger lunch than we generally order.

At El Paraguas, the portions are substantial, so although we were tempted to order more dishes, we noted our waiter’s concerned glance and restrained ourselves. We started with jamón because it would be a sin not to. After the jamón, we shared a beautiful tuna tartare and a large mixed salad loaded with avocado, which Josephine devoured.

Then, for our mains, we ordered a couple of things on the heavy side. Jamil and I shared the Fabada Asturiana, a bean stew made with the most delectable white beans, called alubias. They’re buttery but aren’t so cooked that they lose their shape or bite. At El Paraguas, they serve the bean portion of the Fabada in a sparkling white tureen, and another plate holds all the meats – chorizo, morcilla, smoked pork belly – that were cooked along with the beans to infuse them with flavor. It’s a truly Spanish dish – we cannot recreate it in the States. So it’s definitely worth trying, but only if you’re in Asturias (a region in Northern Spain, just west of Cantabria) or at an amazing restaurant, like El Paraguas, that takes the preparation seriously.

While Jamil and I dug into the creamy Fabada, Josephine enjoyed an arroz con pollo, made especially for her. Rice dishes are massive in Spain, rarely made for fewer than two people. Fortunately, the waitress recognized that we could not possibly eat a large rice dish AND fabada, so Josephine received a miniature portion.

I highly recommend El Paraguas. It would be a perfect place for a Sunday lunch, or you can do an evening meal, as we have done several times in the past. Whatever the case, the meal will be special.

2.      Cervecería Cervantes – My favorite tapas bar in the entire world? This is it. This is where you’ll get the most authentic environment and food. It’s no-frills, they are not trying to wow you here. They don’t even have a website.

The go-to foods here for me are simple: (1) Ensalada de la Casa – tomatoes, olives, onions, and tons of huge chunks of tuna. Unless you’re with a big salad-eating group, order the portion for one. It isn’t on the menu, but they’ll make it. (2) Pimientos de Padrón – Padrón is a city in Galicia, where they grow these small green peppers, similar to shishitos, but better. Restaurants in Madrid fry them in olive oil and toss them in coarse salt. It’s as plain-Jane and as perfect a preparation as I can imagine, and Josephine eats her weight in them. Eating them is also a fun dart-toss because you never know if you’re going to get a mild one or a super spicy one. (3) Boquerones en vinagre – These are pickled anchovies. They’re not salty like the ones you find on pizza. Instead, they’re sour with vinegar and covered with olive oil. Our family is obsessed with them. (4) Alcachofas a la plancha – The artichokes here are fantastic. They’re served with crispy bits of jamón on top, which provides a nice crunch to contrast with the soft artichoke hearts.

Aside from these dishes, you can order all kinds of tostadas (basically, bruschetta). They have excellent tortilla Española. They have wonderful fried calamari or sauteed shrimp. You can’t go wrong with any of it. Get yourself a rioja or a caña (Spanish word for a tall beer) and just chill. It’s a quick-paced, lively restaurant, so you’re bound to have a blast and leave happy.

3. O’Caldiño — Jamil and I ate at O’Caldiño in 2013, but we went at an odd hour, when the place was dead. This time, it was popping off. The bar was slammed, and the dining room bustled with lively energy. We had to wait probably 10 minutes for a table, but I’m glad we did. We’d never seen the gorgeous dining area in the back of the restaurant before, and it’s quite old-world and refined. 

The food is entirely Galician, so it’s seafood-focused, which we were excited about. We ordered fried calamari for Josephine. The fluffy breading was different from the light dusting of cornmeal you often see, and the calamari themselves were small and clearly fresh. No big rings out of a bag here. She also enjoyed our chipirones a la plancha, grilled baby squid, topped with crushed pistachios — very distinctive. And because Josephine was satisfied, Jamil and I risked her wrath and ordered gambas rojas a la plancha, red shrimp grilled whole in their shells. She was not pleased to see us dive headlong into the food she loathes the most, but I can’t lie, it was fantastic. 

Word to the wise — those shrimp are expensive! 

4.      Taberna de la Daniela – When Iberia canceled our flight to Prague out of the blue, we got on the metro to Nuevos Ministerios in search of one last meal in Spain. Nuevos Ministerios is a giant station near Estadio Bernabeu, the home of Real Madrid. It’s an actual neighborhood, filled with Madrileños. I knew we’d find something authentic and good there without much effort.

Taberna de la Daniela is renowned for its Cocido Madrileño, a hefty stew of varied vegetables and meats. It’s the kind of dish you read about but never see produced as it would be in a Spanish home kitchen – kind of how you never really get a roast turkey the same way at a restaurant. I’ve always wanted to try it, and now I know where to do so, although I didn’t get to do so on our visit to La Daniela. It was way too much of a commitment.

They serve the Cocido as three courses. First, they serve the broth with little fideo noodles, setting a huge tureen on each table. Then, they bring out a ginormous platter of vegetables with chickpeas. Finally, a huge tray of various meats arrives.

If you want to come, you definitely need to make a reservation. The restaurant was completely full because people were going bonkers for the Cocido. We got the only available table in the place, and that’s because we were willing to take the only table in the bar, right next to the decaying cigarette vending machine and the trashcan.

We ordered quickly and lightly, knowing we would have to return shortly to the airport to catch the next flight to Prague, but what we had was great. Josephine ordered the Cocido broth, so we got to confirm that the Cocido itself would be fantastic. Then, we got Pimientos de Padrón, of course, and a huge Ensalada Mista, which Josephine loved because it had shredded beets and carrots on top. Last, we ordered Huevos con Pisto. Pisto Manchego combines Josephine’s most beloved ingredients – bell peppers, onions, zucchini, tomatoes – and simmers them into a flavorful stew. Served with an over-easy or sunny-side up egg that you cut and stir into the vegetables, Pisto is a rather healthy dish that’s undeniably delicious. Josephine can eat piles of it, and that day, we actually got two orders!

Next time we go, we’ll be back at La Daniela, hopefully with a group, so we can share that amazing cocido. And if you find yourself near Bernabeu – perhaps checking out a fútbol game – you should make it the place you stop for a meal, especially if it’s a weekend and you can do the cocido.

Chocolatería San Ginés

           If you come to Madrid and don’t eat churros con chocolate, you are definitely missing out. Freshly fried, sugared cylindrical pastries, served alongside steaming hot cups of dense, dark chocolate, churros don’t qualify as breakfast, lunch, or dinner. They’re all and none of the above! Madrileños eat them whenever they want a snack, and Josephine thinks they should be a food group all on their own!

Chocolatería San Ginés is Madrid’s most famous spot for churros. It’s over a hundred years old, and over the years, they’ve expanded wildly. There are now multiple spots, all on the same alleyway and all sharing the same kitchen. The original location still has the best old-world vibe, but that line can be the longest. Oh, yeah, the LINE. Expect a wait!!! But rest assured, it moves quickly and is totally worth it!

---

1.      La Maruca – We’ve been coming to La Maruca for a decade, at least. It just keeps getting better, and which is why it’s recently received a Michelin recommendation. La Maruca specializes in modern Cantabrian cuisine. Best known for its largest city, Santander, Cantabria lies on the Northern Atlantic coast of Spain. The seafood in Cantabria is some of the finest in the world. If you go to a seafood market in the region, the wide array of crustaceans, mollusks, and finned fish will amaze you. It’s hard to believe we accept such minimal variety in the U.S.

We made La Maruca our first dinner in Madrid because it’s reliable and lively, fashionable but not overly formal. And the food never disappoints. 

Here’s what we ordered:

–          Pimientos de Isla – assorted bell peppers, roasted to perfection and served simply with salt and their own juices

–          Alcachofas en plancha – a peeled, trimmed artichoke, flattened and grilled, then served on a bed of onions and wild mushrooms, topped with a fried egg

–          Merluza a la plancha – grilled hake, a fish we only have a skinny relative of in the United States. If you come to Spain, order merluza often. It’s a mild, hearty, delicious fish. I’ll go so far as to say it’s my very favorite fish,

–          Cordero al horno – deboned lamb (I believe it’s the rib section), served with delectable, rich potatoes cooked in lamb fat

–          Gin & Tonics, red wine

Don’t miss La Maruca – and make your reservation well in advance for roughly 9:30PM.

---

2.      O’Grelo – I discovered O’Grelo on our last trip to Madrid through the Michelin guide, and it was so good that I knew we’d put it at the top of our list for the next Madrid dining agenda. As a bastion of Galician cuisine in Madrid, O’Grelo has an impressive host of seafood offerings, representing the wealth of shellfish and fish found along the Galician coastline (just north of Portugal). We saw several tables ordering beautiful, gigantic steaks, as well. 

O’Grelo is a happening spot well into the late hours of the evening; diners commonly sit down after 11PM on the weekends.

Here’s what we ordered:

–          Jamón Ibérico – hand-sliced Ibérico ham – the hand-slicing makes a giant difference, which is why I won’t buy it in the States from the machine-slicing cheaters. Super high-quality jamón here.

–          Navajas a la plancha – grilled razor clams, my favorite mollusk. Razor clams are sweet and different from any other food I’ve ever tried. We can’t get them in Texas, so I go out of my way to order them whenever they’re on the menu.

–          Fried boquerones –  These are fresh anchovies. They’re cleaned, and their heads are removed, but the backbones and tails remain intact, adding not only a special crunch but also a ton of calcium!

–          Caldo Gallego – A classic Galician stew that’s as culturally important as America’s apple pie. Josephine loves soup, so if there’s ever a good one on the menu, I make sure to order it for her. A great soup will redeem even a mediocre meal for her. This one is hearty because of its chorizo base, but it’s also heavy on vegetables, like turnips, kale, and potatoes, so my veggie-loving daughter is a fan.

–          Arroz con pulpo y almejas –Just as Italians have their risotto, Spaniards have their own approach to rice. In Spain, they never add dairy or cheese to rice (or, at least, not that I’ve seen). Instead, they invest in the broth, making a rich, colorful, flavorful foundation to turn plain rice grains into pure goodness. At O’Grelo, most of the rice dishes capitalize on so we went with a seafood-based rice that incorporated two of our favorite ingredients: octopus and clams

---

3.      El Landó – I probably don’t need to discuss El Landó. I’ve written about it before. But I just can’t stop myself. The restaurant is an institution, popular with Madrileños and foreigners alike. It’s super old-school, super Spanish, and super special. Easily one of my favorite restaurants in the world. At El Landó, we always get the huevos estrellados, sunny side up eggs over French fries, cut and tossed together at the table to envelop the crispy potatoes in velvety eggs. It’s outrageously delectable. We follow that with the perfectly cooked churrasco cut of steak, which serves two people. Since Josephine started coming with us, we’ve also added the beef consommé to our regular rotation; she could eat a vat of the crystal-clear broth. If you come, you also need to get the bandeja de tomates, which is a paper-thin layer of tomatoes, flavored ever so slightly with garlic, salt, and olive oil. AND you must get the jamón with the pan de cristal. Pan de cristal is essentially pan con tomate, but the bread is super thin and crunchy, so it breaks like crystal in your mouth. El Landó is worth traveling all the way to Spain for. You’ll get the same waiters that have been there for decades, order a bottle of the trusty house-labeled wine, and have a meal you’ll be talking about until the next time you get to descend the wooden staircase into the darkly paneled comedor, filled with white tablecloths and white-tablecloth service.

---

4.      Las Tortillas de Gabino – We just tried this restaurant for the first time on our most recent trip to Madrid, drawn by the novel takes on the humble tortilla (FYI in Spain, a tortilla bears no resemblance to the ones served in Mexican establishments; it’s a delicious dish unto itself, comprised of diced or thinly sliced potatoes, olive oil, and eggs). At Las Tortillas de Gabino, the standard tortilla Española is dressed up a bit, with toppings like pulpo a la Gallega (a traditional, simple octopus steamed with paprika) and gambas con salsa picantita de tomates (shrimp with a spicy tomato sauce). We chose the tortilla with truffles because I can’t resist a truffle. It was good, but I think I’ll go with something different next time, something with tomatoes or seafood. What I will order again are the lentejas estofadas (stewed lentils). They were insane. And I would get the presa Ibérica again – a beautiful pork loin, seared to a perfect medium rare and served with gorgeous wild mushrooms. What’s not to love?

---

5.      Sottosopra – Late on January 1, we wandered into Sottosopra, an Italian restaurant located in a hip little enclave off Calle Jorge Juan in Barrio Salamanca. I hadn’t made a reservation, which is unlike me, but I didn’t know how we’d be feeling after a hefty New Year’s lunch. As it turned out, we were all hungry (of course, we were – it was 10:15PM!), and I knew Josephine might welcome the chance to eat some pasta. Sottosopra turned out to be the perfect choice. The pasta with truffles was great, as was the grilled octopus, and the service was delightful, especially given the fact that we walked in basically at closing. I now understand why this place is always crowded, and we will definitely be back. It was so good, we totally forgot to take pictures this time.

On this last trip, we decided to stay at the Peninsula Hotel, located in Belgravia. We’d never stayed in Belgravia before; we normally opt for the Mayfair area, wonderful for shopping and fun restaurants, or Knightsbridge, if we want to be close to Harrod’s and the Victoria & Albert Museum. But time and again, I’ve driven by the Peninsula and heard of Belgravia, so we decided to give it a go.

As you might expect, the hotel was awesome. Peninsulas usually are. But what was even cooler than the hotel itself was the location. We were right by the Wellington Arch, where pillars engraved with the names of England’s territories line the way and which leads to Green Park.

The first morning we were there, we stumbled upon a group of people who were tossing crackers to the birds in the trees. The birds actually landed in the people’s outstretched hands and perched calmly. Josephine was mesmerized, especially because a few of the birds looked like miniature parrots (perhaps escaped pets??). She, of course, had to feed the birds, too. Thankfully, those sweet strangers shared their biscuits and nuts to lure the birds and squirrels Josephine’s way.

It’s often unexpected, simple activities, like tempting park wildlife to eat out of our palms, that make our trips memorable. So I think we’ll stay there again and come prepared with a pile of oyster crackers to attract all the runaway parrots we can.

Fortnum & Mason’s

We also had a wonderful experience visiting Fortnum & Mason’s. Fortnum & Mason’s is by far one of my favorite department stores in the world, rivaling Mitsukoshi in Tokyo. Actually, it’s more like a shopping amusement park. Every level is something more magnificent than the last. Walking in on the first floor, you’re immediately shocked by the vibrant display of marzipans and other luxury candies. In the basement, you can wander through their grocery selection, including the most gorgeous pork chops I’ve ever seen, phenomenal mustards and jams, etc. Then, upstairs, you have levels with wonderful home goods, like unusual China patterns and luxurious wrapping paper; clothing and accessories, showcasing fabulous designers you’ve never heard of; a fabulous bar with velvet couches and great cocktails. The list goes on and on. And to make it even better, Fortnum’s creates beautiful, wildly decorated window displays, which make it a treat just to go in and out the front door! Josephine adores the entire experience, and I always let her pick something out – last time, marzipan; this time, a headband – so she’ll have something to remember our magical time gawking at F&M’s wares.

Even if you don’t venture inside F&M, I recommend that you just walk past the window displays, which are impressive enough to warrant a visit on their own.

The Shopping Arcades

While near F&M, we also found ourselves checking out London’s shopping arcades. Arcades in the US are generally associated with Pac-Man and Mortal Kombat. But in London, an arcade is a long hallway with arched entryways and ceilings, lined on both sides with beautiful shops. We rarely enter the shops because they’re quite pricey – and because it’s always awkward entering a tiny shop, where you’re the center of the salesperson’s attention. However, this time, Josephine desperately wanted to go into the Faberge boutique. I don’t know where she learned about Faberge eggs, but she’s obsessed. Anyway, the gentlemen in the Faberge store were so sweet. They let Josephine try on various jewelry, although they had to know there was no way I would be buying her a begemmed 18-karat gold egg pendant.

I’ve been trying to make those silly stops with Josephine, walking into gorgeous shops even when we have no intention of buying anything. It just makes the world more fun. – however, the Faberge salesman can stop contacting me because we’re not really in the market for wearable eggs.

The Dickens Museum

I confess, I’m not a huge Dickens fan. Every Dickens book I’ve tried to read has put me to sleep. However, I do love A Christmas Carol, even if I prefer the stage to the page. And I’m kind of a sucker for historical figures’ former homes – Monticello, Mount Vernon, the House of Augustus, Hadrian’s Villa. The list really goes on and on. Why not add Dickens’ London townhouse to the mix?

The museum was cool, as it turned out. We got there about 45 minutes before closing (par for the course with this crew), so we didn’t linger. But there was no need. We got to see all the rooms of the house, including the study where Dickens wrote a masterpiece or twelve. And we got to see a Victorian-era kitchen and a Victorian-era toilet… And we learned that Dickens’s dad went to prison and left the family dirt-poor. It’s amazing that he became one of the most prolific, well-recognized authors in the English language.

Okay, it wasn’t exactly scintillating, so I wouldn’t recommend it to people seeing London for the first time, but we come often enough that it was worth a visit.

---

It’s no secret, Jamil and I have traveled throughout much of the world. Here and there, airlines have forgotten one of our bags, creating a bit of uncomfortable but manageable strife. 

For example, United misplaced a bag containing Josephine’s car seat and our winter coats when she was about 4 months old; we wandered around Rome and bought some substitute goods but received the bag before the road trip through the countryside began. And just recently, United left my bag in Houston on our trip to Washington, DC. Thanks to the modern bag tracking system, we could easily see that the bag had been put on the next flight and would arrive later in the afternoon. No big deal at all! 

None of that prepared us for the chaos that ensued when Iberia misplaced ALL FIVE of our bags. Yes, I said five. Yes, we pack a lot — probably too much, but who can tell it’s too much until the trip is over and you can see what you didn’t wear? In any case, not a single bag made it with us to Madrid.

Before we left, Jamil put new batteries in our AirTags and made sure every bag had an AirTag. Consequently, when we landed in Madrid, we could see clearly that the bags were nestled in a corner at London Gatwick. We presumed Iberia would do just what United did: stick it on the next flight out, which would leave in just a few hours. We’d have to go a little while — possibly overnight, without our gear — but nothing earth shattering.

We went blithely to the customer service counter in the airport, expecting them to confirm that the bags had never left London. However, Iberia said the bags had made it to Madrid. And it soon became clear that they had no tracking data whatsoever. When I showed them that the AirTags were in London, they tried to convince me that the AirTags were imprecise; the bags had yet to be located but would likely show up in the next (get this!) 72 hours! They told me to check the online system for updates and to purchase necessities until our five bags were found.

We left perplexed because we knew exactly where the bags were. That night, I barely slept because I was so worried that our bags would fall into some luggage abyss somewhere, and we’d never see our things again. In the middle of the night, Jamil and I determined that we had to take matters into our own hands. We bought a ticket for Jamil to fly to London in the morning and collect the bags.

When he got to London, Jamil learned that the bags were indeed sitting on the tarmac, and the Iberia/British Airways personnel put the bags on his return flight. They assured him he wouldn’t need new baggage tags; the bags would just arrive on the carousel when he got to baggage claim. As you might guess, they did not. However, we could see that they’d made it to Madrid, so we went over to the customer service counter again. And again, they had no idea where the bags were. They didn’t show that the bags ever left London, but they also didn’t show that the bags were even in London. They truly knew nothing at all.

When I asked them to find the bags, they said they were in a machine where no one could see or access them. They didn’t know when they’d pop up again – they said to expect at least 72 more hours. I was floored. It had already been 24 hours! AND THE BAGS WERE AT THE AIRPORT, RIGHT BY WHERE WE STOOD. It was absurd.

For five days, we went daily to the Iberia customer service counter in the baggage claim area of the Madrid airport. For five days, they told me by phone and in person that the search for our bags was continuing. For five days, we went and purchased new clothes, toiletries, and so forth to get through our daily sightseeing activities and our evening dinner plans (including an elegant New Year’s Eve party). Somewhere in there, they concluded that the team in London had retagged the bags but had not entered the new data in the airline’s tracking system, so no one could offer any timeline to expect the bags’ return. It would take almost six days to get them back.

I don’t want to get bogged down in any more painstaking detail, but let me share what I learned through this process:

1.      Very little gets accomplished by phone; the people in call centers have delayed information, at best. You actually have to go in and harass people at the airport.

2.      You have to use all available clues to piece together the location of your bags. (We got the numbers off the second bag they located and practically forced the lady at the counter to seek out related numbers.)

3.      You cannot take no for an answer when you know your bags are within reach.

Overall, we were fortunate that this bag mishap occurred in Madrid. We’ve spent countless days there, so we didn’t have any sights we were desperate to see. But we certainly didn’t want to spend 4-6 hours of each day fighting to get our luggage back, which is what we had to do. 

And as a side note, Iberia’s system still doesn’t show that we’ve gotten our luggage. It shows that the search continues for two of the five bags, and it shows that one other has been located but not confirmed. It is wild that their system is so unreliable. I can promise you that I won’t be flying Iberia again with bags any time soon.

I’m also going to try to modify my overall packing strategy. I’m not going to take clothes or shoes that I absolutely love anymore. In fact, I may buy some super-cool travel items with the idea in mind that I might lose them. Additionally, I’m going to pack a small kit of essentials in my carry-on; I’ll put things like extra contact lenses, face wash, moisturizer, underwear, socks, etc., in there, just to have some tide-me-overs if my luggage gets misplaced again. That won’t see me through multiple days without my gear, but it’ll be a decent start.

When I was growing up, I feel like people constantly told me that London had terrible food. I wonder if that was true or if my friends were just on a perpetual hunt for chicken fingers and hamburgers. Whatever the case, as an adult, I have found that the food in London is outstanding. Here’s where we took Josephine for dinner on this last trip (we do so much sightseeing on an average day in London that lunch is sort of nondescript):

1. Colonel Saab -– Jamil and I are suckers for Indian food in general, and Indian food with cocktails?? We’re sold. Initially, my heart was set on Gymkhana, but they’re closed on the 26th of December, so we did some research and found Colonel Saab. I’m so glad we did because Jamil talked about it for days. If you go to Colonel Saab, I recommend spreading your order around the menu. 
2. The Ivy — This is a known classic throughout London. There are several locations and concepts. I have only tried the original one (referred to as Ivy West) because it’s open late, well past the close of theatrical performances. This is where Jamil gets his fish and chips fix. It’s perhaps a bit more expensive than fish and chips at a dive pub, but the dish is an absolute winner every time. I’ve tried many things on the menu and have never been disappointed. Plus, their martinis are excellent enough to make the meal fabulous on their own. 
3. Claude Bosi’s Oyster Bar at Bibendum — A friend we know through Josephine’s school recommended this restaurant, and the moment he did, I knew what it was. We’ve driven past its lively, sparkly exterior in Belgravia many times, and I’ve always wanted to remember the name, so we could go on our next London trip. Alas, I have forgotten on each occasion! Bibendum is housed in the original Michelin building, where they actually repaired cars and likely came up with the brilliant idea of giving people reviews of restaurants worth driving for. It’s spectacularly tiled and decorated, and the front of the establishment houses a small, vibrant flower shop. I was so excited to try! There are two restaurants here: upstairs is the Michelin-starred Bibendum, and downstairs is the lively oyster bar. Originally, we made reservations upstairs because our friend said it was too good to miss, but in the end, I couldn’t justify taking Josephine to a £250 fixed price menu that I knew she’d despise from start to finish. Who wants to be abused for choosing a gourmet meal? Anyway, we went downstairs, and it was great. We had the best mussels I can remember eating — so much cleaner and fresher than most we encounter in the US — and Josephine’s spaghetti with clams was fantastic. I highly recommend this place, whether you go up or down!

---

We’ve come to London in the wintertime several times because of the city’s festivity and pomp during the Christmas season. Shops are beautifully decorated with trees and ornaments and garlands, hotels offer special Christmas teas, and the streets of Piccadilly glisten with lighted angels mounted overhead. Essentially, it feels like Christmas in a way that Texas never quite does. 

This year, we only spent three nights in London, thinking we’d just been there last summer. Did we really need another prolonged stay in the city? As it turned out, yes, because it was just as addictively fantastic as ever. But that aside, we maximized our time, taking this opportunity to pack in some London shows. 

First, we went to a panto (short for pantomime, with no pantomiming as we know it). If you go to London over the holidays, with or without a child, you absolutely must go to a panto. Pantos are bawdy, brilliant stage spectacles that are part of the British holiday tradition. They are wild, and the producers spare no expense. Expect one over-the-top costume after another and shocking special effects, at least at the one put on annually at the Palladium. 

This year, we saw Robinhood. Okay, it was nothing like the actual Robinhood. In fact, there’s barely any plot at all. But it was hilarious. And the talent was excellent. Plus, the experience was even better because the crew chose Josephine to go up on stage as part of a sketch. I’m not sure that will ever happen again, but we were so proud! It was thrilling and unforgettable. 

Second, we took Josephine to the ABBA Voyage show. She’s loved ABBA her whole life. My mother sang Dancing Queen to Josephine when she was a tiny girl, and we have jammed out to Super Trouper more times than I can count. 

The Voyage show is unreal. I thought there were animatronic figures on the stage the whole time. Jamil only informed me after the show that it had all been CGI. I could not believe it. And I’m now certain that The Rolling Stones will perform long after their deaths. It is like going to an actual show, but you’re clapping for no one (minus the human backup band, who are also great). Furthermore, it’s so visually stimulating. They take advantage of the giant theatre to set up a huge light show and use the massive walls for a spectacular video production. I really can’t recommend it enough. It’s genius. And I have a feeling it’ll be the first of many such shows. Maybe this technology will let me see a Beatles show after all. 

---

In the pre-Internet, pre-Zoom days, my dad traveled almost weekly for work. He visited Washington, DC, a minimum of 12 times a year, so he could appear at the Court of International Trade. My mom and I traveled with him whenever my school schedule and her theatre performances would allow. 

Some of my favorite childhood memories are of making the long bike ride from DC to Mount Vernon, picking strawberries in Virginia farms, and wandering various Smithsonian museums. It always seemed like DC overflowed with activity and wonder, and my experiences as an adult have only reinforced that perspective. Jamil and I have visited with friends and on our own. We’ve gone to fabulous parties in DC and met fascinating people. Every time we visit, it’s something new.

This year, when I was trying to plan a trip for us to take with my dad to resume our annual vacations, I had some pretty inflexible specifications. Since my dad ruptured his quadriceps tendon last year, he’s had a hard time walking; it got even worse when he got stuck in the elevator at his senior living community and tore one of the repair cords as he jumped out and landed with improper assistance. So, I had to find a destination that had a decent number of low-impact, minimal-mobility activities. I also wanted a place that went all out with Christmas decorations but didn’t have a ton of ice and snow on the ground. Finally, I wanted a place with great restaurants and nightlife that was a nonstop flight away. DC fit all the requirements — and going there with my dad would give Josephine the lifelong recollection of seeing her nation’s capital for the first time with him.

Here are the things I made sure to line up in advance:

1. Hotel reservations at the Willard. 

The Willard is deeply entrenched in American history. It’s where representatives from most of the states came together in April 1861 for a last-ditch attempt at peacemaking before the outbreak of the Civil War, and where General Pershing declared the creation of the military reserve forces. It’s also where the term “lobbyist” came into existence: interested parties would post up in the lobby at the Willard, waiting for Congressmen to stop in for drinks and a cigar, so they could get a word in to promote some cause or another. Of course, many other events took place there..

The lobby at the Willard still bustles with excitement, and the Christmas decorations are over the top. Sadly, however, the rooms aren’t as well maintained as I would like (yes, I am particular). But I can’t really complain because when I informed the hotel manager of the issues with our room, he upgraded us to the Presidential Suite (named after the original Mr. Willard), and that was lovely. It wasn’t an Asian hotel, but it was really nice.

Even with the issues, I think I would stay there again (if my goal was to see monuments and museums) because the location was unbeatable. We literally walked across the street to the Washington Monument and the White House, and within a few blocks, we were at fantastic restaurants in Penn Quarter. Plus, you really feel immersed in the Capital scene, which is magnificent.

2. Golf cart tour of the monuments with WeVenture.

A good friend told us about golf cart tours in DC, and I am SO glad we listened to him. We did about 3 hours with a guide named Reggie, who was absolutely wonderful. He knew SO much history, and gave us all kinds of insights — about the development of DC as a city, about important historical figures, some of whom we’d never heard of before, and the monuments themselves.

For instance, did you know that the original city planner, L’Enfant, abandoned his work in Washington because he wanted greater control over the development of the city, thinking the Founding Fathers would beg for his return? They might have, if his assistant planner, an African American named Benjamin Banniker hadn’t possessed a photographic memory. Banniker redrew the plans and took over the remaining work on the city. 

Also, did you know that the statue of Thomas Jefferson in the Jefferson Memorial was originally made of clay painted to look like iron because the building was completed during World War II, when all available iron was being used for the war effort? They didn’t get a cast iron statue until well after the war ended! 

Oh, and did you know that if you show up at 8:45 in front of the Washington Monument, you can get day-of tickets to travel to the top of the obelisk and see the mall from that inimitable vantage point?

I am telling you, the hits literally kept on coming. It was so worthwhile. And we even did it on a 35-degree day in the rain. Ask for Reggie. He’s incredible.

3. Tickets to see A Christmas Carol at Ford’s Theater.

Many will remember that Lincoln was assassinated at Ford’s Theater while watching Our American Cousin. Today, the box where Booth snuck in to commit the most reviled murder in our country’s history is still cordoned off, but you can see performances at the theater. 

Each year, Ford’s Theater takes great pride in its production of A Christmas Carol, and Washington in the winter has such an old-world feel that it felt perfect to see something Dickensian. I planned for us to go to the 7:30 showing and then have dinner at Rasika afterwards. Rasika is an innovative, crisp, modern Indian restaurant that stays open late, and I knew Josephine and my dad would love it. 

And love Rasika they did! But we’ll have to see A Christmas Carol another year! Around 2:30PM, I checked whether I needed to download tickets for the show. It was then that I learned I had made a terrible mistake. I bought tickets for the 2:00PM matinee, not the 7:30PM evening show! What a bone head. So yeah, we missed the show.

But we still had great Indian food!

4. Dinner reservations at Filomena.

Filomena is a culinary institution in DC. It’s located in Georgetown, and it is one of the most festive, fun restaurants in the US. The decorations for Christmas are astonishing, they go SO overboard. You totally should come at this time of year for the visual experience alone!

The food comes in gigantic quantities. We got two appetizers and three main courses for the table, and it was way more than we could eat, so don’t order too much!  Besides, you’ll want to leave room for dessert because their desserts are all made in-house and are over-the-top delicious.

If you’re coming to Filomena, be sure to make a reservation!!! This place is packed to the gills!

So those were the big plans (and clearly the show fell through). Everything else, we really played by ear, but you did need tickets for some museums (even though the tickets were free). 

Here’s where we visited:

1. Library of Congress (needed tickets): It’s so beautiful. You should go even if you don’t intend to go into the library itself to do any research. But if you do want to enter the research library, it’s only open a few hours out of the day. Look before you schedule because you don’t want to miss it.
2. National Archives (needed tickets): This was one of the coolest things to see with my dad. Can you believe that this was his first time visiting the Archives?! He’s been to DC countless times, and yet he never popped over to take a look at the Declaration of Independence, Constitution, or Bill of Rights (not to mention the Magna Carta)! He was mesmerized, especially because they give you such interesting insights into how the documents were written and because the handwriting is literally so perfect. This visit doesn’t have to take long, but it’s so worth it.
3. Smithsonian Air & Space Museum (needed tickets): You know, this museum is cool, but it doesn’t thrill me like it does some other people. Our favorite parts were seeing the Wrights’ first flyer and looking at the setups of old passenger planes to see how luxurious they once were — oh, and the old stewardess costumes were also pretty awesome, and so fashionable!
4. Museum of American History (no tickets): I could spend all day here. And maybe someday I will. I never get tired of reading about our nation’s history or of hearing about the railroads and Route 66. I love looking at each First Lady’s china and inauguration dress. I watched every single video about life in the White House. We had a couple of hours here, and it simply wasn’t enough (and I’ve been there probably ten times).
5. The International Spy Museum (needed tickets — these cost money): This is one of the most astonishing museums ever. It’s right up there with the Louisiana Museum in Denmark, the Soanes Museum in London, and the Lobkowicz Palace in Prague for being a barrel of surprises. There are so many activities and exhibits, it’ll blow your mind. In our group, the ages range from eight to 83, and I can safely say that we were all intrigued. I mean, where else can you see ball point pens that fire arrows or bugging devices from the American Embassy in Moscow? And it goes on and on and on. We were there for so long, but I still felt like I missed a ton. I will be back!

---

Overall, we had a wonderful time in DC with my dad. He’s a difficult dude to travel with, but this was probably the easiest place to go with him, aside from Watercolor or perhaps a cruise (we’ll see — that’s our next adventure with him, I think).

Seeing a Doctor

Our car left Halong Bay for Hanoi at 11:00AM. Jamil was feeling pretty terrible. He’d been dealing with a stomach bug since Cambodia, and it hadn’t run its course in the way we anticipated. He clearly needed to see a doctor. I emailed the Hotel Capella on our way back to Hanoi to ask for a house call; they tried to convince me to take Jamil to a hospital, but I’ve been through enough stomach maladies – from a parasite in Nicaragua to food poisoning in Argentina (twice) to Montezuma’s Revenge in Mexico – to know that a hospital visit was overkill.

The doctor met us at the hotel shortly after we arrived in Hanoi, and he was amazing. He immediately began running tests, and before we knew it, we had a diagnosis of E. Coli and a pile of antibiotics. He said to expect for Jamil to feel well by the next morning, which he did!

In the meantime, I have to give Jamil so much credit for being a champ. Even though his stomach was driving him nuts, he explored the nooks and crannies of Hanoi with us.

Quick aside: Jamil and I are pretty terrible about buying travel insurance. It can be so expensive that it makes more sense to risk losing your deposits and prepayments. And doctors abroad are usually quite inexpensive to see. For example, the house call in Hanoi cost $200 – with a doctor who spoke excellent English and ran thorough tests to diagnose Jamil correctly before treating him. A similar doctor’s visit in the USA would cost over $2,000. I speak from experience. However, you really don’t want to have surgery in a developing nation, and if you get extremely ill, you don’t want to be hospitalized there. Consequently, I recommend buying travel medical insurance with a good medical evacuation policy. We don’t do it when we go to Europe, but we do when we go to El Salvador or Egypt or Cambodia. We have purchased ours through TravelGuard and through American Express. I’m sure there are others. They wind up being a few hundred dollars, a bargain for peace of mind.

Some Custom Clothing!

In 2014, Jamil and I visited Japan and South Korea. On that trip, we discovered the fun of visiting tailors in Asia, where everything is custom and beautiful and insanely inexpensive (in Korea, not Japan, obviously!). We wanted to do something similar on this trip, so we did our research and found a tailor with amazing reviews in Hanoi, called Tailor Bros, tucked away in the old town.

---

How do you research tailors? People who go to custom tailors leave reviews. They use TripAdvisor and Google Maps, for the most part. You can also go ask your hotel, but they usually don’t have personal experience with the tailors. They’ve just been told to recommend those people. You need to hear from someone who’s walked into the shop, looked at the options, gotten the goods, and loved them. You also need to look at the pictures people are posting of their tailoring experiences. If the customers are super cheesed out, they’re probably not the tailors for you.

Marveling at the Outdoor Action in Hanoi!

As soon as you walk out the door in Hanoi, you’re surrounded by activity. People are scooting by on motorcycles – entire families on one motorcycle. People are walking on the streets. People are playing sports in the park. They love badminton! They even play a foot version of badminton, where they wear these weird sock shoes as part of their getup. There are adults playing full games, while their kids practice nearby to become good enough to join the fray. It looks really fun. Of course, we weren’t in any position to do anything but watch…It’s not like we’d ever even seen the game before.

Just past the foot badminton business, there might be an outdoor speaker set up. People of all ages might be dancing to Donna Summer. In America, it’s rather uncommon to see people letting loose in such a public setting without any real reason to do so; they save those “be real” moments for the home. But it seems like people in Hanoi see the city as an extension of their homes. They’re dancing and playing and doing – all in public.

And it’s not only adults! On Saturdays, they block off the streets in the old city and create a safe, outdoor play area for everyone. There are streets lined with tables covered in plain white ceramic pieces and paints. Children pick out what they want to paint and sit at little chairs and tables on the side of the road, painting to their hearts’ content. I didn’t ask if the pieces would get fired, but I presumed they would.

In front of those little painting stands, other kids whiz past on rented remote control cars and hoverboards. Josephine wanted to try them, but I felt a little weird about it. Funny enough, she got in a pretty gangster remote control car in Rabat, Morocco, and I didn’t make a stink about it. I guess covid left me a bit touchier about germs.

Anyway, kids are everywhere these days, playing games on the streets, blowing bubbles, taking pictures. It’s all fun and games, and I can’t recommend it highly enough.

You’ll also find the lake in the center of Hanoi lined with pedestrians, vendors, pets – you name it. It’s so vibrant and exciting. I can’t believe we only got one full day there. We will definitely go again.

Author: Jessica Givens